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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 9:07 pm 
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Posts: 5298
. Dear Brian,
you have found out more than I did in the absence of engravings on the binocular.
It may be the binocular is a bit later than I thought. Although I'm not sure.

That type of toggle was quite popular even with binoculars sold in Britain and available under quite a few different brand names.

I certainly bought one such binocular but I didn't like the focusing movement at all as it was imprecise and did not properly keep the correct setting.

JCPenney were quite a bit company in the US but I don't know if they still exist.

If it had stickers you can sometimes date a binocular or a camera to the month and the year of manufacture.

With lenses there are often codes indicating the factory and the year of manufacture.

Hasselblad, Kodak, Canon etc have such codes.

Nikon and Minolta have codes for the number of lens elements and groups.

There are also some interesting hidden codes that help in identification.

Regards David


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 03, 2004 9:58 pm
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Location: Wellingborough
Hunter 7-15x35.

Dear David,

like you I found the slider-bar focusing mechanism to be very poor. In fact the weight of the eyepiece assembly is sufficient for the eyepieces to slide in and out on their own, depending on whether the binoculars are pointing up or down. Even holding a finger on the slider bar can't lock the focus adequately. Really annoying!

Clearly these are a "so-so" quality, not too bad. The Hunter Astro binoculars are another league, but I suspect it's likely that the two binoculars are of different manufacture anyway,

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Brian
52.3N 0.6W
Wellingborough UK.

254mm LX90 on Superwedge, WO ZS66SD, Helios 102mm f5 on EQ1, Hunter 11x80, Pentax 10x50
ASI120MC Toucam Pros 740k/840k/900nc mono, Pentax K110D
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 9:25 am
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. Dear Brian,
the only way I could keep the toggle bar system in focus was to rest both forefingers on each end of the bar at the same time so that it could not move.

As you say the two binoculars are likely to be from different sources.

Those engravings or markings on Japanese binoculars can be five or more millimetres high.
But I don't know what years these were generally used.
I think that maybe modern Japanese binoculars don't have them.

Quite nice day today but still plenty of cloud and even at night it wasn't very transparent.

Regards David


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 4:32 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2006 12:18 am
Posts: 481
Location: Midlothian
HI There,
I got my first real test of the 8X60's,early this morning.DSO's were out of the question as the sky doesn't get dark enough this time of year even at 01:00.However held steady on a tripod I got a wonderful view of Albireo 8) ,there was a bit of coma flare on the primary star but not enough to spoil the view.The gold primary and the blue companion who's beauty we're all familiar with was done justice to with these bins with plenty of clear space between the components.The image deteriorated toward the edge of the FOV but the binary still remained split.
Regards Les


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 12:30 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2006 12:18 am
Posts: 481
Location: Midlothian
Its finally dark enough to try out the 8X60's on some DSO's. :D The Milky Way is visible here for the first time since early Spring. Hand held scanning I was rewarded with a lovely veiw of The Andromeda Galaxy.The M33 galaxy was immediately distinct.Next on the list was the Globulars M15,M92 and M13.Ive never seen M13 like this with binoculars before.I wasn't really expecting to see the twin galaxies M82 and M81 due to the fact there is still a hint of summer background lighting towards the north but even they were faintly visible.The Moon is rising higher now,but I think these bins will be great in the inky black winter skies. 8)


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 4:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 09, 2006 4:06 pm
Posts: 177
Location: West Yorkshire
I know this is an old thread but I've just picked up a pair of these 8x60s for £10 at my local Lidl. They had loads in stock and for 10 quid you can't go wrong :D


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 4:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 9:25 am
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. Hi Graham,
seriously, what is the exact weight of the binocular? Is it less than 1 kg?
if I were buying one I would try 3 or 4 and choose the best one.
On the other hand I wouldn't buy one as my eyes don't open up to 7 mm.

On a lighter note how much would they cost per kilogram? :-)

Regards David


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 10:44 pm 
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Hello,
I am new to this board and certainly new to binocular astronomy (I'm mostly an astrophotography nut) but just having 'impulse' purchased a pair of the Bresser 8x60s at Lidl in preparation for a family holiday and just completed did a first light this evening (I know, it's not fully dark yet, but I am tired) I thought I would share my initial impressions.
Starting with the CONS:
- build quality is lightweight and feels like it lacks the solidarity of more expensive brands - I am not expecting a long lifespan (even with a 5-year guarantee)
- the bridge and eyepiece stem is not very robust; I suspect it can be deformed under pressure but frankly, I doubt anyone needs to press that hard.
- the dioptre indicator cannot be taken as indicative - it shows zero adjustment on mine yet I know my eyes have substantially different prescriptions
- the coating is practically non-existent.
- Some chromatic aberration off-centre as well as a little pin-cushioning BUT only a little
- tripod thread seemed a little short; I had to use a washer on mine to get fully tight
PROS:
- Amazingly cheap!
- I got a near-perfectly fused, in-focus image with minimal fiddling about, with lots of latitude for adjustment
- Lightweight and because of the relatively low magnification, they can realistically be hand-held (but they stand up much better on a tripod, even a light(ish) photographic tripod), this is actually more important for casual terrestrial viewing where a tripod may not be available
- the lack of coating and the larger aperture meant I got more light transmission than my trusty 10x50s and with minimal colour cast (especially evident on the moon, which appeared a more natural colour and in keeping with what I observe through a Newtonian telescope)
- focus operation and dioptre adjustment worked well; everything feels just about as tight as it should.
- I'm in my 50's, so exit-pupil should be an issue, but didn't feel like it - eye-relief felt a little cumbersome, but no more so that using a traditional eyepiece (I suspect there are a limited number of glass elements in these).
SUMMARY: these binoculars give a decent field of view, much of which is sharp and in focus. I found them easy to use and they gave a pleasant, colourful view. I am now going to have to wait for darker skies but I am hopeful. For a budget set of binoculars I was pleasantly surprised. Maybe I was lucky, maybe my pupil dilates more than average. but at the price, with a refund on offer, I took a punt and feel that I got lucky. I wonder when they will bring our a pair of 25x100s?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 03, 2004 9:58 pm
Posts: 3547
Location: Wellingborough
Hello, and Welcome to the Forum :) .

Thank you for your very detailed appraisal of the Lidl binoculars. Your findings agree well with others I've read and at the price they certainly appear to be reasonable value.

A point I picked up elsewhere is that the actual (effective) aperture of these binoculars is 52mm, rather than the 60mm claimed. This can be checked by shining a torch into the eyepiece end and measuring the width of the light beam coming out of the objective end. Another "clue" is that the measured exit pupil diameter is found to be about 6mm. In conjunction with the manufacturers claimed magnification of x8 these values multiply to give an aperture of 48mm approximately.

I have a pair of Meade 10x50 binoculars bought from Lidl a few years ago which show the same "problem". The measured true aperture for these is 42mm. Still, at the price I paid (£15) I'm not complaining :D

Best regards,

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Brian
52.3N 0.6W
Wellingborough UK.

254mm LX90 on Superwedge, WO ZS66SD, Helios 102mm f5 on EQ1, Hunter 11x80, Pentax 10x50
ASI120MC Toucam Pros 740k/840k/900nc mono, Pentax K110D
Ro-Ro roof shed


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2016 4:47 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 24, 2016 2:20 pm
Posts: 2
Hi Trinda

I have been using a cheap set of 10x50 Bushnell. They work great since I really don't worry about them that much, however I find that they're a bit heavy after a while, and you need a tripod, otherwise my old hands are much too shaky for a nice clear view.

Hope that helps somewhat.

Cheers,

Dan.

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Dan at Port Moody Storage


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 11:13 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2006 11:05 am
Posts: 5272
Location: Lancashire
A solution I made to deal with binocular shakes was to make a triangular frame with bicycle grips at the bottom and the bins mounted at the apex of the frame.
The frame works very well for steadiness and it's much cheaper than buying a ready-made one.

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